As we ascend in the elevator of a towering skyscraper in Addis Ababa, heading towards the restaurant perched atop the tallest building in East Africa, the chef reflects on a significant milestone from the previous year. This moment marked the unveiling of his most heartfelt project yet, a restaurant that embodies his connection to Ethiopia.
Family members traveled from their remote village to witness the grand opening of Marcus Addis. However, they faced an unexpected challenge: the elevator ride. The younger generation was filled with excitement, eager to experience the thrill of ascending 46 floors, revealing breathtaking views that stretch towards the Ethiopian mountains. In contrast, the older relatives, unfamiliar with such modern conveniences, were apprehensive. “For them, going vertical was a completely new experience,” he recalls with a smile.
It was early January, just days before Ethiopian Christmas, and the chef, alongside his wife, aimed to showcase the foundation they were building for the future of hospitality in Ethiopia. They are deeply engaged in a long-term initiative focused on training staff, sourcing dependable suppliers, and establishing a consistent standard in both the kitchen and dining experience, akin to the high standards expected in his other establishments.
This moment encapsulates the empire he has created, as well as his aspirations for the next generation of chefs, including his own children, Zion and Grace. As he navigates his intricate relationship with the country of his birth, he pays homage through the universal language of food.
At just two years old, he was uprooted from Ethiopia amidst a civil war and a tuberculosis epidemic. After losing his mother, he and his sister were adopted by a loving family in Sweden. Returning to Ethiopia 25 years later as a celebrated chef, he was still on a quest for identity, armed with a profound understanding of flavors that would guide him in creating a new cuisine that honors Africa, particularly Ethiopia. “Being adopted often feels like losing a part of your identity… it’s like swimming against the current,” he reflects.
Now at 54, he stands at the pinnacle of his career, having forged a unique identity that blends his Ethiopian heritage with his Swedish upbringing and global culinary experiences. He has developed a new cuisine that empowers a generation of Black chefs to explore their multifaceted identities through their culinary creations.
During his initial visit to Ethiopia, a local spice merchant introduced him to the ubiquitous use of berbere, a spice blend that has since become a staple in his dishes. It adds a kick to cocktails and serves as the foundation for his signature creation, the Swediopian, a modern twist on gravlax that features prominently on his menus.
As he prepares for Ethiopian Christmas, he explores a local poultry market, eager to incorporate traditional flavors into his dishes. Doro wat, the beloved spicy stew considered Ethiopia’s national dish, is reimagined in innovative ways. In Addis, the dish is deconstructed, featuring a fried chicken leg, a deviled egg, and a unique “doro wat lasagna” encased in puff pastry, reminiscent of a Wellington. At his upcoming restaurant in Washington, D.C., it will be transformed into a fun handheld empanada.
His current fascination lies with teff, the ancient grain used to make injera. In his New York and D.C. locations, teff is blended into fluffy gnocchi. At Marcus Addis, he and his chef partner meticulously crafted a teff noodle, hand-cut tagliatelle tossed with roasted tomato Bolognese, spinach, lemon zest, and Parmesan.
Similar to other super grains like quinoa and fonio, he envisions teff making a global impact. Collaborating with a brewmaster, he is developing a teff beer, inspired by a previous fonio brew. The potential excites him: “You can’t fathom the impact this could have on the local community.”
What he has achieved since returning to Ethiopia surpasses even his wildest dreams, earning accolades such as eight prestigious awards and establishing numerous restaurants worldwide.
Throughout this journey, one word has been his guiding principle: soul. “It represents my journey of self-discovery, transitioning from boyhood to manhood,” he shares. The past 25 years have been about embracing his identity—balancing his experiences in New York, Sweden, and Ethiopia—and learning to navigate these diverse cultures.
This quest for identity led him to travel across Africa, seeking the Soul of a New Cuisine, a pivotal book that explores the continent’s flavors, and to write his acclaimed memoir, Yes, Chef, where he candidly discusses his experiences as a Black chef in a predominantly white culinary world.
His journey also led him to find his biological father, a man he had been told was deceased, who was very much alive and living in a rural village outside Addis Ababa with eight half-siblings. “In the 25 years since my return, the most memorable experience has been meeting my father and being introduced to my new family, with my wife and children being integral to that journey,” he reflects.
In 2010, he made the bold decision to leave the safety of his acclaimed restaurant to embrace a new culinary direction that incorporated African and African American flavors.
His Ethiopian experiences have influenced every restaurant he has opened since, including Merkato 55, which was ahead of its time, and the immensely popular Red Rooster, a tribute to African American cuisine and its roots in Harlem. His latest venture, Hav & Mar, blends Swedish and Ethiopian flavors, featuring dishes like pan-seared hake served with shiro and gomen, Ethiopian greens akin to collard greens.
In 2023, he opened Metropolis, located near the 9/11 Memorial, a site where he had cooked just days before the tragic events. His upcoming seafood-focused restaurant in D.C. will serve the largest Ethiopian community outside of Ethiopia, with Marcus Addis being a significant part of this journey.
Throughout his travels, he has met many Ethiopians who have shaped his understanding of his heritage, none more so than his wife, an Ethiopian-born fashion model who has helped him appreciate the diverse ways of being Ethiopian. “Maya has provided me with a profound understanding of what it means to be Ethiopian, beyond just being born there,” he states.
Despite numerous offers to open a restaurant in Ethiopia over the years, the opportunity to establish a presence in the Commercial Bank of Ethiopia building was a chance to contribute to the future—a “spaceship,” as he describes it—where he could train staff for upwardly mobile careers in hospitality and inspire students to shape the next generation of dining experiences in the city.
He could have chosen to set up shop anywhere, but he chose Ethiopia. “Engaging with our culture is challenging. We don’t reside there, and Marcus doesn’t speak the language, but he communicates through the love of food, and that has earned him trust,” his wife explains.
In the U.S., his celebrity status is widely recognized, but to Ethiopians who may not be familiar with his work, he represents a chef who shares their heritage, even if he doesn’t speak their language fluently. He is the chef who prepared a meal at the White House for President Obama’s first state dinner.
Shortly after our elevator ride, a group of 12 culinary students from a local school arrives at the restaurant, part of a partnership designed to provide Ethiopian students with hospitality training that enhances their prospects both locally and globally. “The restaurant is vital,” he emphasizes, “but equally important is the relationship with the school and the pipeline it creates for future talent.”
Four students, selected by their instructors, are set to embark on a three-month internship at Marcus Addis. The first group has just completed their training, and the entire class is visiting the restaurant for the first time. For many, it’s their inaugural experience in a professional kitchen. “You’re standing at the top of Addis right now!” he exclaims as he welcomes them.
The Vision Ahead
When asked about their aspirations, one young chef shares her dream of opening a bakery named Beyond Sweets. He assures her that he and his wife will be there for the grand opening.
“Hold on to your dreams, as every industry faces challenges and moments of doubt,” he advises. He shares his own dream: “My aspiration was to return to Africa, open a restaurant, and work with both the present and the future. I am fortunate to be working with the present, and you all represent the future.”
The following day, we embark on a three-hour journey to a new eco-lodge nestled in the mountains of Wenchi, a crater lake on the country’s highest volcano. This is a new territory for him, and he immediately recognizes the untapped potential as he explores parts of Ethiopia he has yet to discover.
A traditional wooden boat glides across Wenchi Crater Lake.
During a boat ride, he is captivated by the pristine waters, free from pollution. He envisions a future where the fish served at his restaurant could come from this lake. Later that week, he ambitiously adds a new dish to the menu—Lake Wenchi Crispy Fish Salad, featuring crispy rice, avocado, pickles, tomato-coconut sauce, and lemon vinaigrette.
As we trek through the mountains, he pauses to examine a field of enset, a drought-resistant plant related to bananas that serves as a vital food source for Ethiopians. The leaves are used for wrapping fish and thatching homes, while its nutrient-rich bulbs are essential for staples like kocho, a fermented flatbread, and bulla, a porridge.
That evening, Marcus joins fellow chefs to prepare a special meal for local officials and guests, featuring a freshly slaughtered goat, a customary practice for significant celebrations. As the sun sets over the crater lake, he prepares a simple dish reminiscent of what was served at his wedding, infusing it with his own twist using berbere, soy sauce, rosemary, and garlic.
“This dish is ‘guramayle,’” he explains to the audience as a popular song by Ethiopian artist Gigi plays in the background. The term loosely translates to “what is mine is mine,” touching on themes of cultural identity, language, and nationality. It resonates deeply with both Samuelsson and Maya, serving as a recurring theme throughout their journey.
In culinary terms, guramayle represents traditional Ethiopian ingredients like teff, berbere, and shiro, reimagined through innovative techniques that honor the past. “It’s not strictly traditional,” he clarifies. “It embodies the essence of Ethiopia while embracing Western influences.”
At Marcus Addis, the concept of guramayle is prominently featured on the menu, guiding diners—both local and international—on a culinary journey that reflects the evolving identity of Ethiopia and the chef himself.