The Art of Crafting Switzerland’s Iconic Cheese

Switzerland is renowned for its exquisite cheese, and the process of creating its most famous varieties is nothing short of an art form. At the heart of this craft is cheese master Jean-Charles Michaud, who employs a unique tool known as a sonde—a cowhorn hammer with a corer. With a gentle tap, he listens intently to the sound produced. A hollow note indicates a flaw, prompting him to taste the cheese. If it doesn’t meet his high standards, it will be repurposed rather than sold as fresh-cut wheels. Mifroma, a major player in the industry, ages nearly 10,000 tons of Gruyère cheese annually, showcasing the scale of production in contrast to smaller operations.

However, not all cheese makers operate on such a grand scale. Take Martial Rod, for instance, who embodies the spirit of traditional cheesemaking at La Moësettaz, a quaint alpage nestled in Le Brassus. This family-run establishment represents a stark contrast to Mifroma, producing less than 2 percent of the AOP cheese. Yet, the craftsmanship here is remarkable. Rod’s chalet, adorned with commemorative cowbells, serves as both his home and workplace. As he stirs a vat of curds and whey, heated by glowing embers, the warmth inside is a stark contrast to the frigid temperatures outside. His muscular arms, a testament to the physical demands of lifting 77-pound cheese wheels, tell a story of dedication and hard work.

“Cheesemaking runs in my blood,” Rod shares, reflecting on his family’s legacy. “I cherish my bond with the animals and the respect for nature that this work entails.” He knows each of his 50 cows by name, overseeing every step of the cheese-making process. For him, the alpage symbolizes true freedom, where he can connect with nature and his craft.

In the misty meadows, Rod’s cows graze peacefully, their udders producing the milk that will eventually transform into cheese. This cheese will find its way into beloved Swiss dishes, such as moitié-moitié, a delightful fondue that combines the robust flavors of Gruyère with the milder Vacherin. Rustic Alpine eateries, like Chez Boudji in Broc, specialize in this comforting dish, drawing locals and tourists alike.

As the cows leisurely chew their cud, Rod prepares for the upcoming désalpe, a traditional event where farmers parade their herds from the alpine pastures to the warmer plains for winter. This annual ritual is a celebration of Swiss culture, as chalets across the region ready their fondue pots to welcome the après-ski crowds, eager to indulge in the rich flavors of Swiss cheese.